Exploring the causes of micro-level behavioural rebound effects in second-hand clothing consumption in the Netherlands

Abstract

The fashion industry faces increasing scrutiny for its environmental impact, while second-hand clothing (SHC) consumption is frequently promoted as a sustainable alternative to fast fashion. However, actual substitution of brand-new clothing (BNC) with SHC remains limited. Existing literature often focuses on motivations for SHC use but lacks insight into the behavioural mechanisms that explain when and why SHC fails to replace new purchases. This research investigates what causes insufficient substitution behaviour, when SHC does not fully replace BNC in consumers’ wardrobes, leading to an increase in overall clothing consumption at a micro-level in the Netherlands. It aims to identify both the drivers and barriers that influence whether consumers replace new clothing purchases with SHC, contributing to the theoretical and practical understanding of sustainable consumption behaviour. This is done by exploring the research question: What causes insufficient substitution consumer behaviour at the micro- level of second-hand clothing consumption in the Netherlands? A qualitative study was conducted with 17 SHC consumers in Amsterdam, using the COM-B model as a framework. Semi-structured interviews and thematic analysis identified behavioural patterns linked to substitution. Findings show that substitution behaviour is mainly opportunity-driven, with availability, accessibility, and convenience acting as key drivers or barriers. Capability developed over time, as consumers gained experience and confidence in finding satisfactory SHC. Motivations like sustainability, affordability, and uniqueness supported, but rarely drove, substitution when contextual barriers were present. Substitution was higher for categories like trousers and outerwear, possibly due to fit, durability, or brand familiarity. Despite consumers’ sustainable intentions, their behaviour was inconsistent due to habits, emotional attachment to BNC, and social pressures. The research concludes that insufficient SHC substitution is not due to a lack of sustainable attitudes but rather a complex interaction of limited opportunities, evolving capabilities, and context-dependent motivations. This extends current theoretical understanding by applying the COM-B model to SHC consumption, showing that consumers’ capability to substitute SHC for new clothing develops over time. Next to that, systemic barriers, such as limited availability or platform convenience, often prevent sustainable intentions from translating into action. Recommendations include investing in local SHC infrastructure, improving accessibility of digital platforms, and designing interventions tailored to specific clothing categories and consumer behaviours.